Hi there, Sandy here.
Welcome to another polymer clay jewelry video at KeepsakeCrafts.net.
Today in part one of a two part series, I'm going to show you how to make two of the beads
for our bracelet here.
So we have some focal beads on one side and then a bundle of beads strung on the other
side and I'll show you how to do those and the clasp in part two.
Now even though we're going to start with making our polymer clay beads, it's actually
a good idea to first choose your other beads because it's easier to choose these that you
most likely will purchase and then match your polymer clay to these rather than the other
way around.
So I decided my bracelet's going to have a purple and copper theme because that's kind
of what I've been into lately and I've chosen beads for four strands.
Now you only need 3-4" of each type of bead for this bracelet because half of it's going
to be taken up with the beads we're going to make.
And I've kind of gone with sort of an earthy theme here.
I've got these deep purple wooden ones and then some copper.
I've got some shells, some pearl and these other purple ones and notice I've got a variety
of sizes, shapes, textures.
It just makes for a very rich look.
So once you have those chosen, you can also choose another focal bead.
Now these happen to be some beads that I made.
These are swirly lentil beads.
They're a lot of fun to make and if you'd like to learn more, I'll put a link to my
peppermint swirl video that I made awhile ago that gives you the basics of making swirly
lentil beads.
These are purple and copper clay and a lot of fun, but if you really want details on
how to make swirly lentil beads and exactly how to get designs that you want, you can
check out my class at CraftArt.edu on the Gradient Swirly Lentils Necklace where we
really go into detail in just how to do it.
But anyways, you'll want to pick yourself either a bead you have in your stash or another
one that you've purchased to go on the other side of your beads and then we'll be making
the other two out of polymer clay.
So to make our faux ceramic beads, you're going to need some white or other light colored
clay.
Here I have some white mixed with some pearl and this has been rolled out on the thickest
setting on my pasta machine, which is about 2.5mm thick and we're going to use a double
layer and that will give us a nice substantial bead that doesn't look too flimsy.
And since beads are notorious for flipping over the wrong way, I want to have both sides
textured.
So I have a texture sheet here that I made.
You can use any texture sheet you have and I'm just going to start at one edge and roll
the texture.
So there's one piece textured and then on the other side here, I'm going to use these
texture stamps.
These are from Mandarin Duck.
She is a great designer and a polymer clay artist.
She has a YouTube channel.
I'll have links to her.
This is called Indian Flowers and I'm going to use one of these for my texture today.
I've got it mounted on an acrylic block and I'm just going to put it on and I'm going
to put a lot of pressure on.
I'm actually standing up and I'm rocking and I really want as deep an impression as I can
manage to get.
And now I'm going to layer this.
I'm going to flip this one with the texture sheet upside down and place that one on there
and kind of roll it down so that we don't trap any air bubbles and then you can just
cut out whatever shape you want.
You can make a heart, a circle, an oval, a teardrop, a totally organic made up shape,
whatever you want.
I just have this diamond that I thought would look nice.
Position that where you want and cut through it and that is your bead.
And I'm just going to smooth out that seam from the cutter and then make a hole in it.
Now you could just make two holes here and here and that would be easier, but I want
the stringing to be easier so I'm going to use a needle tool and go through and it's
not as difficult as you might think.
First of all, what I have here is a doll needle.
I found so many uses for this.
I've used it on dolls, but I've used it a lot in polymer clay.
You can see how much thinner it is even than one of my thinnest needle tools and it's very
rigid, hardened and strong.
So I love using it for piercing holes.
So we have our bead and I'm going to send the hole through this way and what I'm going
to do is pierce the point here and then I want to send that needle through about half
way and if you lightly hold it between your thumb and index finger of your other hand
and just hold it, twirl the needle.
You can feel it in there ever so slightly.
Just send it through about half way.
So there we go, a little over half way.
Flip it around and then repeat on the other side.
And if you hold it so that you are looking right at that hole that you started with,
twirl and pierce and look at that hole.
Quite often it will come out right in that hole.
Don't let your eyes wander anywhere else or it will come out somewhere else, and there
it is.
It's this kind of crazy hand/eye coordination thing.
And that's ready to bake.
Then our other bead is a textured bead.
Like I said, I chose my beads for the other half of the bracelet first and then just mixed
up a clay color from my scrap bin.
This is a purple with something else in it.
I also threw in a bit of copper in it.
It gives it a little sparkle and kind of tones it down and makes it a little more earthy
and rustic looking.
So you want to start by rolling a nice ball and then I have these two things for texturing
it.
I actually got this idea from Marlene Brady in one of her Polymer Clay Adventure classes.
I think she used pet brushes.
These are scalp massagers I want to say.
I got them on Amazon.
It was $4 for a set of four.
I don't know that they work particularly well.
I think you're supposed to use them when you're shampooing.
Maybe if you have really short hair.
I didn't find they worked particularly well, but what I like them for is making this really
cool textured bead.
So you just put your ball of clay in the middle of the two and then you start rolling.
The harder you press, the more you're going to deform your bead, but the deeper your texture
will be and actually I kind of like flattened ovals for bracelets.
I don't like big lumpy round beads so I'm going to put a fair amount of pressure and
get this really interesting textured bead.
Use your needle to poke a hole in that one and bake them both at the manufacturer's recommended
time and temperature.
So here I am back from the oven with this textured bead.
Isn't this great?
These are fun.
I could just make these all day long.
Now often when I have something with a lot of texture, I might patina it with a dark
brown or a black paint, but I kind of want this to stay purple.
So I'm just going to hit the high points with a little bit of copper Gilders paste.
Now not too much.
I really want it to stay looking purple and if you want to know more about Glders paste,
check out my Gilders paste video, but you want to let it dry for 12-24 hours and then
you can buff it and then this won't come off.
You don't have to worry about sealing it.
Now for our other bead, we're going to have to mix up some liquid clay and there are lots
of different options out there.
There's this one that's probably the easiest to find.
You can find it in the craft stores, Translucent Liquid Sculpey.
There's Kato Polyclay, there's FIMO Deco Gel.
There's several different brands.
I'm going to use TLS because, like I said, that's the one that's easiest to find.
And you just need a little container.
I snagged these.
Costco gives out samples in these and if it's not something goopey, like if it's got a cracker
or something, I keep them and I use them for mixing things.
Unless you're making a lot of beads, you don't need much at all and then you have several
options for what you can color it with.
One thing you can do is take chalk pastels, take a blade, shave off some of the chalk
pastel and mix that in.
Keep in mind that pastels are an opaque medium so if you do that, you don't want to add too
much or you'll make your mixture too opaque and it will lose that translucency.
Another thing you can mix in are alcohol inks.
I mixed in one or two drops in this much and it was plenty.
You don't want to mix in too much or you'll lose the translucent look.
Another thing are Perfect Pearls, which you don't really get much of the sparkle from
the Perfect Pearls, but you do get the color.
Just take a little bit.
Start with a little bit.
You can always add more and then just mix it in.
Here are a few mixes I did earlier.
I have to say I am always disappointed.
Whenever I use Purple Twilight in something because I see this pretty purple color and
I always get this kind of gnarly pink.
It was actually more gnarly than that.
I threw in a drop of eggplant to deepen it and I'm always disappointed in it, but try
different colors of alcohol ink.
This is the one I used with the chalk pastels and you can see there are little grainy bits
in there, which you might like the look of in your faux ceramic.
You'll just have to experiment.
And then this one I did the mixture of the two colors of Perfect Pearls.
So here's my clay piece out of the oven and the best way I find to deal with this is just
to put it on a piece of wire you're going to bake it on.
This will just help you to hold onto it while you're adding your liquid clay.
The Popsicle stick you used to mix it is great for applying it as well and this is where
you'll see that a nice, deep impression is good because we're just going to scrape the
liquid clay over the surface of the baked shape.
And by scraping it, you might try scraping in different directions, you really get it
into the recesses and then reveal that design.
So that if you have a nice deep design, you get nice pools of color and then you can kind
of just scrape some across the edges.
As much or as little as you want and then also on the back and then you just keep going
until you're happy with the way that looks and then pop that back in the oven for another
15-20 minutes.
Here are three of my beads out of the oven.
This one is the one I did with that Purple Twilight that changed colors on me.
Not thrilled with it.
This one was done with the pastels.
You can see the little speckled look and then this one that was done with the mica powders.
As you can see you really just get the color and not the shimmer.
Now if you want to reveal a bit more of the white, you can take a sanding block and this
is like a 220 grit and you can kind of go over it and just bring out, you can smooth
out those edges.
Leave it on the wire for now.
Now you may be looking at this and saying "well that doesn't look anything like ceramic".
No, but take a look at this one.
Can you see the beautiful sheen?
It just kind of looks like fired ceramic.
I have not added any gloss glaze to this.
There's a really cool trick you can do after baking liquid polymer when it all looks kind
of chalky and boring frankly and you can make it look beautiful.
And the trick is to use one of these.
This is a heat gun.
You'll find it often in the paper crafting section of your craft store and it's used
for heat embossing, among other things.
And by the way, if you're interested in any of the supplies I use, every single one of
my videos has a blog post with a complete supply list and links to products and you'll
always find a link to that in the description box and also in the upper right.
YouTube changed it.
It used to be a little 'i' for information and now it's a tag that if you hover over
says "more info" and so there will be a link to the blog post there as well.
So anyways, back to the heat embossing gun.
You just turn it on and it's going to be a little noisy on the video.
Keep it a few inches away from your piece.
Don't get it too close, you can scorch it.
Be kind of patient and just keep heating it up and warming it up and at some point you
will see it start to get shiny and glossy like that other bead I just showed you.
You know, it's always my hope to inspire and encourage you with my videos and if you have
benefited, I hope you would consider becoming a patron because you can support these tutorials
with just a dollar a month or whatever you can afford.
You can check out my Patreon page for details on the rewards you'll receive
for helping out.
Little extra goodies that I send along to my patrons
like bonus videos and templates, a look behind the scenes.
Now can you see that just starting to get a sheen?
It takes a little bit of time.
Do be careful,
don't get impatient and scorch it.
If you do scorch it, you can sand it off, but it's better not to.
See it getting that shine? I'm kinda of watching my video booth behind this. I don't want to light my fabric here
on fire. That wouldn't be good. So I'll do that for all the sides.
Okay.
I finished that up off camera because I really wanted to move that heat tool out of my video
video booth.
Didn't want to start a fire.
And so there it is.
You can see you just get that sheen from heating it up and it really makes it look like a piece
of ceramic.
And if you look on this one, there is, oh you can see right there I scorched it cause
I got too close.
I tend to get impatient.
So try not to do that.
So now you should have your beads all chosen and made and ready to assemble and I will
show you how to do that in part two and I'll also show you how to forge a great copper
hook clasp.
So if you liked this video, give it a thumbs up and share and subscribe to see more like
it.
I upload every Tuesday and Friday and be sure to subscribe if you haven't already.
Take a peek at my Patreon page for how you can get great rewards and help support these
tutorials.
Happy creating.
Bye bye.
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