- [Jason] A good idea while building model kits
is to put all your parts into baggies.
I know that just may seem like a bit of a stretch
as far as complicating things a little bit more,
but over time, if you put a lot of your parts into baggies,
you won't lose them or break them
and it keeps everything a lot more organized.
And organization is the key
to actually having fun and a good time
with model kit building.
As you can see here, with the time machine parts
that I have with the chair,
I have the larger parts in a large bag
and I have the smaller parts in a smaller baggie
inside the larger bag.
And this is so that I don't lose the parts
and they don't get broken,
and I can actually put this one whole section
somewhere else so that the parts won't get lost
and I can get to the quickly.
So a quick tip is just to be organized
and keep everything together.
(upbeat music)
I have all the parts laid out to each chair
that all the parts correspond with.
Each chair has a total number of 24 individual parts.
To the two time machine saddles that are on the left,
if you look in the rear of all the parts behind the seats,
you can see that I have dryfitted each bottom section
of each saddle.
Now what I mean by dry fitting
is that I've put parts together,
but I have not glued them yet.
I will show you with the saddle that's on the far right
how I will go about dry fitting parts.
I have the lower part, or the lower section
of the time machine saddle
that needs to be dry fit.
Now the definition of dry fitting is just that.
I'm not using anything wet
or any type of adhesive
in order to glue anything together.
And these four sections that you see
have a grove that's on the opposite side of the piece.
And basically it's going to fit around
or this part right here is going to slide
into this section right here.
Now let me show you how I dry fit these parts
to make sure that they fit properly.
Basically all I'm gonna do is I'm gonna turn 'em around,
and I'm gonna just slide 'em into the groovess.
Do the front, do the back,
and I'm gonna do each side.
(relaxing music)
And that's it.
All four sides of the bottom portion of the saddle
are now fit snug onto the base of the chair.
And that's it, that is exactly
what dry fitting is all about.
You wanna make sure that your parts fit
before you glue 'em together.
A good idea when working with either plastic or resin kits
is to mark the areas that need to be cut.
I suggest this so that it can save you a lot of time
and headache in the future.
Basically, I take a Sharpie marker,
and I draw either a squiggly line
or a slash or an X.
As you can see here,
I have squiggly lines, slashes, or Xes.
Also, a good suggestion is that
if you wanna be more specific
and a little bit more precise
depending upon what kind of model kit it is
and what kind of detail you want
and what you need to cut away,
make an X or make a box
and then use slashes to shade in the area
that you need to cut away.
So just remember, like the old saying goes,
measure twice, cut once.
Remember, this is a really good idea
to save you time and headaches in the future.
As you can see there I have a dust mask,
and it's very, very important
that you wear the mask when you're sanding resin.
You don't wanna breathe resin dust in,
it can give you upper respiratory problems
if done over time,
and it's just not safe for you to breathe in.
So please remember, wear a mask.
(loud drilling)
And you can see here my girlfriend
is starting to cut a lot of the large groove pieces
from the parts of the time machine
that are going to form the chair,
and obviously, as you can see here,
there's a lot of resin dust that's coming up,
and that's why she's wearing the mask.
Please remember, any time that you are cutting resin,
to please use a face mask.
(loud drilling)
OK, now that I've used the motor tool
to sand down around the area that I had
the Gorilla Super Glue,
now it's time to do some wet sanding.
And wet sanding is exactly just that.
You have a water bottle with water in it,
and basically all you do is
you spray the water onto the piece,
or if you would like,
you can spray it directly onto the sandpaper,
and then basically all you do is sand away.
Now what this will do is create a smoother surface.
(loud sanding)
Now if you were just to sand it without water,
it would actually make the surface a lot more rough,
and can cause more problems,
bigger holes, divots, scratches.
So all you do is to squirt the water on, start sanding,
and then basically you start with a low grade sandpaper,
and you end up going to a higher grade sandpaper
with more grit.
The higher the grit, the smoother the area's gonna be.
I show you an easy way to locate pupils
on either a bust or figure model.
So, why don't we get to the video.
No one item can make or break a figure
as effectively as the eyes.
If they are well painted,
they can make an inanimate model seem to come alive.
But no matter how well built or painted
a figure model may be,
if the eyes are poorly done,
it will only be a model.
There are any number of ways to select paints
and color schemes for painting eyes.
We're talking about human eyes here,
other beasties don't have to meet the same standard
or larger scale kits.
When you get much smaller than one twelve scale,
it's generally better to do little detailing
with the eyes than to do too much.
There's no one right way to paint eyes,
except for one rules: the pupils
of both eyes must be aligned in the same direction.
There are very few characters
that look good when they are cross-eyed or wall-eyed.
Frequently, the sculptors of the patterns for model kits
render the eyes as smooth sections of spheres.
This was the case with the model
we'll use as our example.
Geometric designs, one quarter scale resin bust
of The Bride of Frankenstein,
sculpted by Jeff Jaeger.
It would be easy to paint the whites
and irises of the eyes realistically,
but if the centers of the eyes, the pupils,
were out of alignment,
or weren't painted as perfectly round circles,
all the preceding work would be for nothing.
And yet, there's an easy way to render pupils,
which will work for most any scale model
with smooth eyes that are large enough to detail.
Simply drill the pupils out before painting the eyes.
This should be done
before the final color coats are applied,
preferably after the application of the primer
or base color.
At this stage, you can play around
with the position of the pupils
as the direction in which the eyes will be looking
can greatly effect the mood of the finished piece.
It's helpful to locate the position of the pupils
with a pencil,
and the paint will provide a little tooth for the lead.
Or, you can take a digital photo of the model,
and use a drawing program to move the pupils around.
When you think you've got the pupils accurately marked,
check by holding a model
so that you're looking straight into the eyes.
If you've got them lined up properly,
you'll get the unnerving sense
that the eyes are looking back at you.
If one mark is a little off,
now is the time to correct it.
Now all you have to do is drill out the pupils.
For this operation, a handheld pin vice is advisable
because you want the greatest control.
Only a shallow depression will be necessary
to create the pupil.
Now the rest of the eye can be painted,
because the pupils have already been centered
it will be much easier to paint the irises around them.
The result will be a convincing set of eyes
that will truly make your figure look alive.
Well I hope that you like the suggestion,
and find it useful in locating pupils
on a bust or a figure kit.
Now the right size to find the pupil area in scale
would be like a quarter size bust or larger,
or a larger, maybe 10 to 12 inch figure.
When you start getting smaller,
then I would either suggest
going under a magnifying glass
or getting decals that you can put on the eyes.
(upbeat music)
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