hello friends, today m going to teach you front open princess cut blouse with piping
the measurements is like this
total length of blouse 14 inch
shoulder to shoulder width 11 inch
shoulder length 6.5 inch
chest 30 inch
waist 25 inch
front neck length 6.5 inch
back neck length 7 inch
neck width 6 inch
sleeves' length 5 inch
half arm round 4.5 inch
this is my lining fabric and on this we first do drafting
and after that we place it on saree fabric and do cutting of it too
we required 80 cm to 1 meter of fabric to make blouse, this is my lining fabric placed in 2 layers
this is open side and that is close side, first we do drafting from open side
first of all take blouse length + 2 inch lengthwise i.e 14 + 2 =16 inch
and now on this 16 inch marked line, we mark shoulder to shoulder width and on this side we do drafting
shoulder to shoulder width is 11 inch, its half is 5.5 inch + 0.5 for sewing seam makes it 6 inch
now from this point mark shoulder length lengthwise i.e 6.5 inch and cross mark it with 6 inch widthwise
take half inch less and join these two points to above point
now in parallel take 1/4 of chest + 2.5 inch, we take 2.5 inch because we are making it princess cut
chest is 30 inch, its 1/4 is 7.5 inch + 2.5 =10 inch
now come to bottom, and here take 1/4 of waist + 2.5 inch i.e 25/4 = 6.25 inch and add 2.5 inches further, mark it
now join waist marks and chest marks in slant manner
now we do front arm curving only, bcoz this is our front piece
after that, mark a bit less than half of neck width at top, neck width is 6, its half is 3 so mark at 2.75 inch
and front neck length is 6.5 inch, cross mark it with 2.75 inch, make a box and do front neck curving
after that mark 0.5 inch on shoulder line lengthwise and join it in slant manner to neck width mark
now from top, mark high bust point i.e 10 inch, we take 0.5 inch for sewing seam and mark at 10.5 inch
in width it is 3 inch, so cross mark it with it and also cross mark with 3 inch at bottom and draw a line
now take point from center of arm hole and join it with high bust point in a bit curve manner
after that, we insert 1 inch pleat, so join these points like this
but while cutting, first we cut the outer side line and after that we do cutting of inner line
after that, while stitching we join it like this, i'll teach you that while stitching
we do cutting starting from neck portion to armhole till bottom
before cutting princess cut line, we place front piece on fabric and cut our back piece too like this
only the back neck will be a bit deep and at arm hole area it is a bit on wider side
deepness of back neck is 7 inch, mark it and cross mark it with same neck width mark i.e 2.75 inch
make a box and do back neck curving
after cutting back piece, now we do cutting of princess cut line like this
along with with we cut this dart too
from this remaining fabric we cut our sleeves, which i already taught you, after this i'll proceed further
after that, place this lining fabric piece on saree fabric and do cutting, i'll first adjust it and then proceed further
like this we place lining fabric on saree fabric and now we do cutting alongside it, this will be our complete cutting
after completing this i'll proceed further
after cutting main fabric, now we join our main fabric with lining by cut-stitching
after joining it, i'll proceed further
now we insert this piping in it, for this take close part of piping on side part of blouse and sew it
do the same on opposite side too
after stitching piping on both sides, now fold piping like this & place it on middle blouse part and then sew it
like in this way, our piping will be inserted
like in the same way, we insert piping on other side too
after inserting piping in princess cut, now we insert hook and loops strip, which i taught you in simple blouse tutorial
after inserting them too, i'll proceed further
after inserting hook and loop strip on front part, now we insert fitting pleats in back piece
and after that i'll join shoulders, this I already taught you in simple blouse
after completing this i'll proceed further
now we insert bias tape in neck portion (LINK IN DESCRIPTION)
after completing neck, now take it to wrong side and again take measurements for fitting line
for this, we take total from hook insertion strip width wise and measure 1/4 of chest i.e 30/4 = 7.5 inch, mark it
and at bottom, take 1/4 of waist i.e 25/4=6.25 inch, mark it and join it with chest mark
and on opposite side, at loop insertion strip, we leave strip from there and take measurement of chesti.e 7.5 inch
and in bottom, also leave loops strip and measure 1/4 of waist i.e 6.25 inch, mark it and join it with chest mark
now this is our new fitting line and we sew or join it with our back piece
after fitting stitching, now we join sleeves and fold it from bottom up to our required length
after completing this i'll upload an image of it
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in next video i'll teach you a new cutting/stitching in a simple way..thank you :)
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