welcome to the video workbench classic series instructional video
model finishes and painting techniques
what's the first thing you see when you look at the model finish now creating
attractive attention model finishes is easier than ever and as a special bonus
you get complete airbrush instructions from an airbrush compressor and applying
paint radio model cars armor or aircraft this video is packed with must have
detail every modeler needs
originally produced in 1992 the techniques using this deal still cover
everything you need to get going with your model kit the examples shown here
really haven't changed too much there is no definitive way of building a model
kit everyone has their own way of doing things and with time so will you
this video teaches dozens of useful tips no matter what your skill level
including what I consider that three important keys of model kit building
tips tools and techniques I would like to talk a little bit about the
instructor in this video is a former United States Air Force guy here who
made extensive use of his models and photography during his military career
he has used his mouth photos for intelligence briefings and often fool
experienced officers as market photographs have appeared in trade
magazines such as the journal the International plastic model of society
and finds you modeler just to name a few
i hope i watching this video that you walk away with a better knowledge of how
to safely and correctly assemble a plastic model kit along with happy found
or coming back into a hobby that is very fun and rewarding thank you and enjoy
hello and welcome to video work bench model finishes and painting techniques
I'm your host Chuck Davenport my boy and I are here building one of these
marvelous little snap take its course at his age but the most he's able to do is
put the wheels together and apply these cells stick decals but you're probably
at the point where quality and accuracy of you finish are very important and if
that's the case my boy and I have a video for you ok what's next year we
have to put the wheels on here listen to him snap 123
to demonstrate techniques of the TV award-winning finishes will cover
surface detailing weathering and applying decals much of the finished
work I do is accomplished with an airbrush so let's cover that topic first
for most of my painting I'll be using Tosh brand airbrushes this is a simple
external mix single-action device which allows you to control only the air flow
with this push button volume is controlled with a variable nozzle
interchangeable tips give you more flexibility in the size of the spray
pattern this external mixed double action posh airbrush allows you to
control booth air flow and volume with one button check with your local hobby
shop there are a number of different brands available ranging from 10 to $15
all the way up into the hundreds airbrush is a very delicate instruments
and require special care keep viewers spotlessly clean even minut amounts of
pigment can clog your airbrush and drive you to distraction I clean mine with
lacquer thinner disassembling the brush and cleaning the parts with pipe
cleaners as an option you can store your tips and thinner
industrial such as ek to clean your brush if your brushes rubber seals it
soon won't after Nek gets to them in the heat of battle you may not have the time
to disassemble the airbrush in this case you can get away with sprained solvent
through the tip and cleaning the cup make sure you go from light to dark
colors to minimize the effects of pigment contamination and don't do this
too much plan your work and make time to clean the tool properly there are a
number of air sources available such as cans of compressed air available at your
local hobby shop or Walmart compressors like this old when I use cost about $100
if you're in the hobby for the duration I would encourage purchasing a
compressor a simple holding tank made from a propane bottle helps to smooth
out the airflow a water trap is absolutely essential water mixed in with
pigment will ruin finish this particular device incorporates a pressure regulator
and was purchased at a national hardware chain store for under $40 I live in
Georgia where humidity is a real problem so I also have an inline water trap
airbrush is a very versatile tool and will accept a wide range of paints
including acrylics lacquer and enamel the new acrylic or water-based paints
are environmentally friendly but you have to be very careful about mixing and
surface preparation lacquer based paint dry quickly but can attack plastic if
used improperly and animals are the easiest to work with but because of
their long working time you really have to be concerned with protecting the
finish from tests while driving rather than trying to explain the benefits or
drawbacks of a specific brand I will explain my preferences as I go along the
final choice of course is yours
the key to an award-winning finish its surface preparation
the surface must be perfectly smooth free of pits scratches or surface
blemishes I went polish the surface with 600 grit sandpaper after working out
scratches with course regrets you can check the fidelity of your work with a
light coat of gray or aluminum primer the paint reveals any flaws these can be
filled with putty your favorite brand likely contains toluene which allows the
body to bond with the primer so you don't have to remove paint in order to
add more party once you're satisfied with the service you can move on
preparing our model for painting by masking off appropriate areas artists
risk it is great for demarcation lines but inadequate for compound curves
masking tape can be cut to adhere to curves but you must burnish the edge to
keep paint from seeping under canopies can be masked with Scotch tape scored
the table a sharp knife and remove tape from canopy frames so that these can be
painted if you are building an airplane windows in the fuselage can be filled
with a thin mixture of white blue water and a couple drops of dishwashing liquid
after this dries it acts as a mask my absolute favorite primer is flow cool
grey primer available in their railroad range of colors mixed the primary with
lacquer thinner 60% gray and 40% thinner you can use measuring cups or eye
droppers just keep the basic mix consistent for almost all airbrush work
I do I start with this basic mix and then I strain the paint into the cup to
remove clumps of pigment and other impurities oh by the way the strainer is
really high tech sections of old pantyhose test your basic mix
each paint has unique characteristics try to use fresh paint to minimize the
effects of aging on the pigment such a compressor at about 40 pounds of
pressure and test the spray if it comes out in clumps or spatters it's too thick
add a drop of thinner if it's praising streaks it's too thin at a drop of paint
keep testing to the point where you get a smooth even spray there is a direct
relationship between air pressure and pain viscosity at forty pounds of
pressure the basic 6040 mix is a good starting point however if your air
source puts out less pressure you will need to thin the paint even further for
the purposes of the video my mixes and pressures are based on the use of a
compressor with a regulator mount your model or parts with toothpicks downs
bent wire anything to allow you to pay the peace without handling it is
handling is a must do so with disposable gloves available at pharmacies the model
must be free of oil and grease so I give it a rub down with a clean white towel
moistened with mineral spirits or paint thinner just prior to every painting or
clear coat I wipe the part lightly with the tack rag to remove last traces of
dust I like local grey primer so well because it bans permanently to plastic
by attacking a chemically to keep from crazy and distorting the smooth surface
of the plastic missed on several barrier coats after you lightly covered the
model you can come back with one or two wet coats remember to spray at an angle
to help spray away any unseen dust particles if you use a thick primary
such as that from a spray kin you may need to gently scribe panel lines to
restore detail covered by the primer if you use for local great primer the paint
will dry quickly enough so that you can complete the process in one session
however let the primer dry for a day then go back and check for any further
flaws or imperfections these must be sent it out and then we primed just can
be a time-consuming and largely boring process but for any model in any scale
it's an absolute necessity to get an award winning finish what's the part
with 1000 grit sandpaper a light touch is called for
especially around the edges the idea is to obtaining a smooth finish on the
primer try the model periodically and check for rough spots don't hurry
remember you get out what you put in
remember that the bane of the model painter is airborne dust and chemical
odors if you don't have an elaborate spray and dust removal system a simple
cardboard box and a three-stage air cleaners such as this one from VA
environmental marketing will do the trick
the 18 scale Tamiya by motor motorcycle I'll demonstrate techniques that I learn
from master modeler and friend Pat covert from Birmingham Alabama on how to
achieve unbelievable gloss finishes from either a spray can or an airbrush if
you're in automotive modeler this is the finish for you I'll be using tackle
gloss white enamel in a basic 6040 mix and forty pounds of pressure technique
start and finish brain outside the park hold your airbrush about 6 to 10 inches
from the part and adjust the novel can deliver a fine mist mist on several
light coats allowing the paint to dry for 20 minutes in a dust-free area don't
try to cover the primary and one code used at least three missed cuts spray
undersized and other parts the same color you use the same techniques with
spray cans except that an animal paint out of a can seems to spray better when
it's warm so the candid about three inches of hot water for five minutes
also hold the can tend to 12 inches from the surface to be sprayed since you
can't control the flow of paint as well as an airbrush paint parts with compound
curves one section at a time taking pains to keep the coverages even as
possible the hard part that requires practice and patience is applying the
wet coats the idea is to achieve a deep gloss finish too little paint results in
orange peel and too much results in runs keep a strong light off to the side to
check for gloss if you're using an airbrush
you want to open the nozzle to increase the paintball you you several passes to
build an even gloss and check your work to ensure you achieve an even plus the
biggest mistake people make is not allowing enough time between coats let
you paint set up in a dust-free environment for 30 to 45 minutes in
order to achieve that super gloss finish you're going to have to apply up to four
wet coats follow your last gloss coat immediately with clear gloss let this
setup for 40 minutes then follow with two more clear gloss coat allowing
forty-minute setup times between coats after the last clear code let the paint
cure and a dust-free environment for ten days
yes that's right 10 days work on sub-assemblies
another model go mow the lawn just leave that paint alone for ten days so that it
can cure properly
can be found at Auto Supply stores when all is just one of a number of polishes
you can use on your model check with your local hobby dealer for more
suggestions if you finished up with a slick paint job you can start with a
four or six thousand grit if you have a rougher surface or one with slight
ripples start with 2402 3600 grit sand dry so that you can monitor the progress
of your work
wrap the measure around the block provided in the kid and start sandy use
a light touch and sand in strokes not circles the first grits will dull your
finish greatly don't be alarmed you will notice the course grits taken the
ripples out of the paint leaving the glossy low spots continue sandy until
the surface is uniformly dull gradually work your way up to 12,000 grit at which
point you will be amazed at the quality of your finish apply a tiny dot of went
off to a warm rag and polish I stay away from cotton because the weave acts more
like sandpaper I prefer went off because it polishes and waxes at the same time
if you use straight polish you will want to finish the job with a fine quality
wax such as the treatment detail wax available at hobby shops if you intend
to add water transfer decals you need to stop just prior to adding additional
clear coats remember that decals must always be applied to a glossy surface
regardless of whether it's a car a tank and they're playing or whatever to apply
water transfer decals you need a pair of scissors tweezers a soft brush a dish of
clean warm water and a decal setting solution
your decals out a gesture model so that the service you want to work is
accessible dip your dick Alen warm water for about 10 seconds
remove it and let the water drain on a towel for about another 10 seconds
test the decal it should slide easily if not dip it once more for another 10
seconds
moisten the parts lightly with water slide decal off and position it with a
brush you may need to hold small decals with tweezers carefully blot excess
water away with the town taking care not to move the decal it never fails use a
moistened brush to smooth out bubbles and wrinkles now let the decal set for
about 10 minutes you can move on to other decals decal setting solution
allows the decals to adhere closely to the surface and any surface detail test
a scrap piece before using the solution apply the solution with brush to the
entire decal surface don't be alarmed what happens to the decal and don't try
to touch your position and you will ruin it just let it dry for a day if as in
the case of the ten-year Bimota motorcycle you have decals that made to
former Finnish make sure you overlap them about one millimeter to account for
shrinkage this will give a smooth unbroken finish lets the decals of dried
you can resume with a glass overcoat sanding and polishing treatment that I
described earlier resume with the glass overcoat sanding and polishing treatment
you'll be amazed at the depth of the finish and the Glasgow will completely
hide the clear decal film this technique for achieving super gloss finishes
requires patience and attention to detail but the results are well worth it
in a contest the first thing the judges notices to finish you can have loads of
scratch built detail in the model but that doesn't necessarily guarantee a
winner
a model executed cleanly and simply with us stand out finish will be the winner
let me assure you that these painting techniques work equally well for
automotive lacquers fingernail polish acrylics or just about anything else
that can be put on plastic or metal a word of warning though don't mix acrylic
paint with enamel or lacquer paint you can spray acrylic over enamel or lacquer
primer be very careful spraying lacquer over an animal it can damage the paint
but an animal goes over lacquer quite well I highly recommend testing your
paints on pieces of scrap before you work on the model
let's talk about making your own decals often you will need decals were none are
available I needed some cock pit nomenclature for this P forty cockpit
it's as simple as buying a sheet of clear decal film from your local hobby
shop and creating the artwork on a typewriter or desktop computer with a
laser printer reduce your artwork to the size needed on a reducing copy R Us
section of clear decal on the correct side and position of the sheet of paper
that will be run through the copier
you now have a reduced copy of your artwork on clear decal still put a coat
of clear lacquer or enamel on top of the decal and let it dry the beauty of this
technique is that for a few dollars and the color copier you can create or
reproduce virtually any color artwork and make it into a decal are things to
IP most director local chapters Bruce rate above for this useful tips
especially combat aircraft you need to decide up-front whether the aircraft
will appear as it did when it rolled out of the factory or at some time during
field service wartime and field service subjects the aircraft to various degrees
of wear and tear also do your homework to determine the correct colors for your
camouflage scheme museums books magazines shows and other modelers such
as those night PMS are valuable sources for this type of information I often add
bare metal four panels to various parts of the aircraft this helps to add some
diversity to the otherwise uniformed services of a model cut a piece slightly
oversized and burnished with a q-tip or a dry transfer burn assure available at
art supply stores on compound curves apply the foil to the high side of the
curve and work outwards finally cut and trim the excess
finished begins with proper surface preparation and priming washed the parts
sand the part smooth apply your primer and the primary smooth to get added
depth to the camouflage game highlight panel lines with flat black using a 64
remix forty pounds of pressure and a fine spray a three-by-five card access a
mask using the color scheme from the Ministry of small aircraft production
decal she values Humbrol paint to cover the sides and undersides light blue once
again begin with the basics 6040 mix and forty pounds of pressure don't try to
cover and one coat spray three light coats to get basic coverage then add
paint where necessary to blend the black panel detailing in begin masking for the
final camouflage colors I'll use masking tape to mask the leading edges of flying
services trailing edges are covered with artists risk it to prevent overspray
cover the remaining areas with tape and paper on this aircraft the lines between
different colors with soft which is to say darker colors were lightly feathered
at the edges where they met lighter colors to achieve this effect the mask
line needs to lie slightly above the surface of the model to help simulate
the uneven edge I tore a piece of card and taped it in place
spray your first camouflage color 60 40 minutes forty pounds of pressure I'm
using home rose brown violet build the color using a fine spray you should
still see the very faint outline of the black panel lines I'm partial to humble
because of its fine pigment but I have to give a plug the guns he saying you
and their superlative aqueous color range using cards cut to size hold each
one in place and spray up to the card use a fine spray 60 40 minutes
forty pounds of pressure and build the final coat with the intention of finally
feather in the edges in this case the color is homegirls dark green in order
to achieve the modeling so characteristic of Luftwaffe aircraft
will change the mixture ratio and pressure settings once again the ability
to regulate air pressure will prove very helpful in creating different effects
and there are at least three methods of appliance soft model camouflage one
involves making elaborate masks and the other requires delicate brushwork and
oils by far the easiest is airbrushing using a 40 60 mix meaning 40% pigment to
60 percent thinner 15 pounds of pressure and a fine spray test the pattern on a
piece of card before committing yourself to the model once satisfied with your
tests spray small irregular patterns of brown violet then switch colors and do
the same for dark green the spray should be so fine that you have to build color
finish off other color details such as writer and spinner then let the pain
cure for a couple of days
inspect the finish for any flaws and correct these with a light sanding and
restrain white the tack rag and give a good coat of clear gloss testers glass
code works well apply decals as described earlier
keep in mind that during field use many factory stencil markings were
obliterated after frequently paintings and touch-ups once complete protect the
decals with a code of testers dull coat
now the real work begins whether in an aircraft is a slow process that demands
attention to detail and certain fitness overdone it can look very bad but
applied with subtlety and restraint weathering can be most effective in
telling the story of an individual machine this detail to execute his panel
detail simply use a number to mechanical pencil very sharp to pencil in panel
detail I have seen ink used but I don't care for the technique too much it's not
very subtle
spray the area behind the exhaust stack will define miss the flat black build
the painter so that the black aids in two aircraft color the further back you
go
dark grey pastel powder
the wing walk and cockpit rail frequently had paint worn off to achieve
this effect use a section of soft cloth wrapped around a Q-tip tip this in
artists metallic powder aluminum here
rub this aluminum out on a scrap service still nothing but a dull black smudge
remains on the clock now dry brush the walkway and rail until the desired
effect is achieved often leading edge paint was worn away due to the action of
airflow combined with dirt and dust sort of a sand blasting effect this too can
be simulated with aluminum dust paint frequently chipped off and other areas
too so dry brush flat aluminum on selected areas of the leading edges of
flying services spenders panels and cockpit frames you can also scrape small
bits of pain away from the areas covered with bare metal foil remember don't
overdo it even with larger subjects field conditions were not conducive to
clean aircraft light-colored services would get dingy quickly use earthtone
pastel powders to remove the fresh paint look from the aircraft hinge joints
around runners elevators and ailerons can be given an appearance of depth with
a bit more pastel powder
will prevent the paint underneath from being weathered in this case mix some
paint color with pastel chalk and dry brush the clear decal film a steady hand
is needed
build the effect gradually no matter if you get paint on the decal in many cases
national markets were painted on the aircraft and suffered the same effects
of weather and don't forget wheels since ww2 aircraft often operated off of grass
field you can use earth tone pigments to build up layers of mud or you can mix
passed up powders with a dab of white glue and with water
favorite technique of contests caliber modelers is to use a toothbrush to spray
earthtone pigments on the undersides that might normally be spread by wheels
in actual service check your sources aircraft leaked oil the airstream causes
it to streak along the fuselage a small dot of artists Inc from a repeal graph
Penn Street with your finger does a nice job of simulating those oil streaks
there are many other details you can add to your model it's a matter of taste
time and money a word of caution though many of these weathering effects of
perishable so protect your model from dust and handle it carefully now let's
move on to another finish that gives modelers fits natural medal
finishes remove all raised panel lines with 400 grit sandpaper polish with 600
grit prior to spring white but a Craig put a thin coat of clear gloss varnish
using a 60 40 mix on your model any garden variety will do as long as it's
not polyurethane let it dry overnight in a dust-free environment the next day
inspect and remove any flaws wiped the tack rag spray another coat of varnish
and let it set up in a Destry environment for two hours depending on
atmospheric conditions the varnish should be virtually dry to the touch
actually it's a good idea to spray a scrap piece of plastic to use as a test
article when you touch the surface you should feel a slight tackiness but no
residue should stick to your finger you know like a post-it note chippewa we're
going to artists aluminum powder and begin buffing the varnish no need to
skimp on the powder you should see a glossy almost chrome like surface
developing a few Buffalo varnishes to dry the finish will be glossy but
transparent if you before it's too wet to finish will be dull after the finish
is cured white the model with attack Craig which will realistically dull
finish and recode with varnish repeat this process to produce a finish that
will resist damage from any subsequent masking once cured the finish is ready
for detailing and some diversity to the overall aluminum finish with the
following techniques bare metal foil panels rotate the grain for a different
effect
aluminized finishes such as humble silver or local gold silver painted on
clear decal film masking selected panels with artists risk it and repeating the
vanishing procedure but this time adding black copier toner to the aluminum
powder to change the shape of aluminum outline bulkheads ribs and rivets with
an artist stump dipped in powder this traded is a discarded vacuum cleaner
belt with a piece of felt attached this keeps from our in the surface
you can easily put a metal finish on any complex surface the wheels on my Bimota
are done and gold powder I wanted something really different yet
convincing from my 143rd scale 57 Chevy in fact I even treated the photo etched
sheet so that my grill and wheel spokes had a gold tone finish I was rummaging
through my models and found a conceptual kid at the B two bomber by model
technologies this was back before anyone had an inkling of what the be to really
look like the kids basic Delta shape look nothing like a bee to but could get
some styrofoam and bondo be made to look like Aurora the alleged super-secret
replacement to the sr-71 the problem but all those models of u2's sr-71 stealth
fighters is the monotony of a black finish I didn't want my Aurora looking
like a huge black blob so here's how I added some variety to the basic black
finish on the Aurora described penalize using various templates since I have no
references my panel lines are based on what I think the aircraft may look like
and my knowledge of how airplanes go together after cleaning the surface of
any oil residue in plastic bits I primed and sanded as described earlier I'm
going to put down a code of packed red dark grey the actual hugh was not so
important
some I prefer like Ghost Grey but I wanted to keep all the colors tone down
once finished the great will simulate walkway markings and sensors for this
reason I will completely cover the top but only selected sections of the
underside using one-sixteenth inch wide Chartpak tape lay out the walkway lines
I am basing the walkway pattern on photographs of the B two stealth bomber
as a reconnaissance platform the Euro would need electronic sensors that would
not compromise the aircraft stuffiness
to simulate these sensors I will use sections of wedding veil material
available at any fabric shop these are cut slightly larger than the panel later
material and police taking care not to distort it
will also be equipped with optical sensors so I dropped out some 18 inch
diameter holes there's no master plan here on the size of the hole the size
and location just looked right I imagine that the Aurora would have an attitude
control system much like the reaction control system used on the space shuttle
to simulate these I cut bare metal foil to size again I'm just guesstimating
here next day used a metal punch to score holes in the fall peace after
carefully lifting the rectangular piece and leaving the foil circles behind I
rub the foil rectangle in place after masking cockpit windows I sprayed the
aircraft in overall flat black using testers paint job of adding diversity
and interest to a rather dull paint scheme involves generating a variety of
hues of black remember that the eye is disturbed by asymmetric patterns so if
you have a particular shade on one side of a model balance the model by applying
the same shade to the other side if you need to decrease the tackiness of the
tape
your forehead this color is flat black mixed with purple in a three-to-one
ratio of black to purple your TV might not show these subtle shade but in
person they're quite evident if you get a piece of dust on your freshly painted
surface use a piece of tape to pick it out and then respray use royal blue in
the same proportions to get a slightly different shade stay away from the other
colors unless you need a really strange shade you can add white but you're
really just making shades of grey this shade was created by mixing three parts
gloss black 21 parts over after it dried for a day I rub the finish out with that
same piece of material I used earlier to simulate aluminum showing through the
war in camouflage of the BAF 109 you want to use this affects sparingly
because it really stands out by mixing glass black and silver fifty-fifty I got
this standout engine color on the by Moda after I rubbed it out to simulate
what I envisioned to be absorbing leading edges I needed an absolute dead
on flat black the aircraft was mask and sprayed with a garden variety of Mac
varnish using the same technique for creating a metallic finish I rubbed
copier toner onto the varnish the effect was so striking I used the same on these
heat vent louvers and some other areas
an important aspect of modeling subjects that may not actually exist is
visualizing what they should look like Hollywood production designers do this
when they create vehicles and spaceships for science fiction films with the
Aurora I envisioned a vehicle operating in the upper fringes of the atmosphere
on a slush hydrogen propulsion system since extreme heating create an ionized
layer of gas that shows up on radar my Aurora would need a system to capture
and dissipate as much of the heat as possible so the leading edge captures
heat which in turn is used to warm the slush hydrogen to operating temperatures
what little heat remains is vented upward into space where it would be
undetected by radar this visualization dictated my design panel line placement
and color scheme
for yet more shades of black I cut a mask from a three-by-five card to
simulate a small access panel and artists charcoal on the area
graphite color works well also and leaves an interesting is she
to add further contrast between different panel highlighted panel lines
with a number to mechanical pencil
finally I cut a few other masks from three-by-five card and spray different
areas with a clear semi matt lacquer to vary the tone of the basic black black
the result after only a few hours of effort is the completed Aurora it has a
basic yet varied black finish
issued a challenge in the journal of the International plastic model of society
the challenge was to build a post nuclear war era concept vehicle I came
up with a vehicle that resembled a tank from a commuter's worst nightmare I
built this vehicle to demonstrate some modeling techniques that will work on
any armor model other than cleaning mold release with mineral spirits know
whether painting preparation was done next I added damage to the vehicle by
grinding plastic away with a dremel tool
one other technique is to distressed the plastic used in a soldering iron I
prefer the soldering iron to direct flame because I can control the effect I
use a 15 watt soldering iron
the forward gun turret cobble together with parts from the scrap box was
distressed the same way the main gun turret was a simple box constructed from
sheet styrene I wanted to depict welded steel suffering the effects of weather
in combat to simulate a weld joint glue a piece of stretched sprue into place
the diameter of the sprue is dependent on the size of the weld joint and scale
using this precise mathematical formulation guessed that a diameter of
about one millimeter would do just fine using the soldering iron I gently push
the tip into the sprue creating a fair representation of a weld joint this
technique was carried through to the scratch built tank chassis
the blast damage was created by gouging the sheet plastic with a dremel tool
then the soldering iron was used to detail the effect finally I used a 240
grit sandpaper to take some of the rough edges off and make the blast more
homogeneous you see anti armor weapons used the extreme heat resulting from
terrific pressures to melt through armor the blast effect is largely coincidental
the car body was primed with local grey primer and sprayed with a code of packed
reflect red absolutely no attempt was made to lay down a pretty finish I
wanted grunge however I was mindful of dust the gun turrets and steel plate
armor were primed with actress steel and left that way to simulate arrested
finish I dusted local rust over the entire model until I had laid down
enough pigment to satisfy my tastes a little damage done to the flat red in
steel would be a welcome benefit to the overall grand genus of the model no
mercy for the chassis this was paid it overall rest when you spray a wet coat
of lacquer on styrene it usually crazy as the surface which in this case was
just fine
severely rusted and pitted areas such as fenders and punctures were created by
applying a thin coat of superglue before the model was primed then sprinkle
baking soda
yes that's right baking soda over the glue the to form a chemical bond that is
very strong in fact this makes it great gap filler but it's very difficult to
sand after the painting is done
go back and brush this area with local rust and feather the rest into the
surrounding paint using a dry brushing technique once dry seal with clear flat
next give the area a washer flat black finally burnish the high spots with
burnt sienna pastel chalk
keep in mind that this last step is highly perishable so this should be the
final details step just before the model is set up for display you can also use
the rest of our system to addressed to previously painted parts railroad
modeling shops generally carry this product but you can ask your local hobby
dealer to order it for you with basic construction surface detailing and
painting complete and a day for the paint to cure it was time to seal the
finish with a protective coat of clear matte test result code works well for
this and provides a good base from which to begin detailing Romanian areas such
as the steel plate corners and blast damaged or dry brush with local rust to
add visual drama to the high and low areas the model was given a light washer
flat black
ground vehicles quickly show signs of accumulated dirt if not cleaned
regularly and my post new vehicle is no exception to dramatize the effects of
Sun and dust I missed it on a coat off local grey primer over my completed work
I used a seventy thirty mix of lacquer thinner to pigment at forty pounds of
pressure and a fine spray at a distance of about two feet from the model the
airbrush deposits and almost imperceptible layer of gray pigment only
spray for about 10 seconds that's enough you really don't want to see the pigment
but its presence on the model reflects light and influences the eye of the
viewer money up the vehicle using a toothbrush and earth tone pigments I
rushed to the road wheels and muddy them with rust off this is great stuff it
looks clumpy and messy like dried murdered you simply apply a coat of thin
white blue and then sprinkle on the mud and grungy road wheel
with matt lacquer and apply a black wash if you want to add a deeper level of
grunge when you detail chrome parts it's best to remove the chrome you can do
this by wrapping a piece of cloth around the shank provided in a dremel tool kit
the spinning radware away the chrome leaving their plastic underneath once
you've completed simply you may need to go back and spruce up the past 20
shading you did I like to rub some earth tones on my finish to add further depth
and enhance the effect started by Miss Teen flow cool grey remember thats
affects the top and murder affects the bottom in between is a mixture of the
two
the coup de Gras of any ground vehicle is fuel and lubricants stands there are
a number of techniques for simulating the effect my favorite is for local
grind this is clump Eaton St look and stuff
loader brush with lacquer thinner dip it into the local crime and then read it in
the thinner drain some excess onto Atal then apply the stain to the surface and
let it run down the side repeat as necessary to get the effect you desire
it's better to under do the effect then to over do it because it's easier to
build the effect that it is to try to undo a botched attempt
remember that oil stains will travel for example across the scene and pool and
recessed areas so treat these areas accordingly
pressure oil stains can be made by using glass black and pink dinner if you use
for local rest instead of grime you can achieve the similar effect of dripping
rust stains on water-borne vehicles
this brings me to the close of another video look for other titles in our video
workbench series i'm Jack Davenport and we'll see you next time
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