Begin your installation by marking the center of the drain pipe on the subfloor.
Transfer or mark the rectangular cut-outs on each of the supplied templates onto the subfloor
Cut out the 4" x 6" center drain opening completely.
Using appropriate tools such as a router, cut the end cap recesses a minimum of 3/16" deep.
Ensure all required drain components are present.
Measure the opening where the line drain will be installed and cut equal amounts off each end of the drain so that it can be dry fit into place with a 1/2 inch gap at each end.
The line drain body should be cut on a tile wet saw or equivalent for a clean, square cut. DO NOT use hand tools.
Dry fit the line drain into place and measure the cuts for the drain end caps.
The marks for the final cuts should be made where the top surface of each end cap meets the top surface of the line drain.
Use a utility knife to carefully deburr the final cuts to the drain body.
Assemble the drain body and end caps as shown and dry fit.
Use the included drill bit and jigs as shown to pre-drill the holes for the end caps.
Use the included countersink bit and jig to countersink the screw holes so that the included screws will fit flush.
Turn the drain body over and note the letter designation of the area your final end cuts were made in.
In this case the drain was cut in section C.
Locate the ramp pieces which match the letter section where your final cut was made.
The tab on the ramps may need to be trimmed flush if it interferes with the drain body's internal supports when assembled.
Pour ABS cement into the applicator bottle supplied with the line drain.
Lay out the end cap, deck and ramp for each end in preparation for gluing.
Use the applicator bottle to apply ABS cement as shown to glue the ramp pieces into the end caps.
Ensure the ramp is properly seated in the end cap before the cement can cure.
Apply ABS cement as shown to each end cap and fit into position on the line drain body.
Use the supplied screws to attach the the end cap to the drain body.
Be sure to remove any excess ABS cement on both inside and outside seams before gluing the deck in place.
Apply ABS cement as shown to glue the deck in place on the drain/end cap.
Apply a heavy bead of ABS cement to the underside of the seam.
Measure and cut the supplied aluminum rails to fit in the notches on the underside of the drain body.
Note the difference in height between the two rails. Ensure the smaller rail will be positioned on the 'slot' side of the drain body.
Remove the backing from the adhesive on both sides of each rail.
Firmly press each aluminum rail in place so that both sides with adhesive make contact with the drain body.
Use clamps as shown (or similar method) to firmly seat the aluminum rails in place.
Drill and countersink 3 holes along each rail location - 1 at each end and 1 in the center.
Using the supplied screws, screw the line drain body to the aluminum rails (3 on each side).
Important: Ensure all screws sit flush with the upper surface of the line drain body.
After all screws have been installed check to ensure the drain body is straight.
Use a drain plug to perform a water-tight test of the assembled drain body.
Dry fit the line drain and mark the back edge in preparation for gluing.
Apply HYDRO-BLOK Joint Sealant generously to the subfloor where the drain will be positioned.
Use a trowel with a 1/4 inch or smaller notch to trowel out the sealant.
Apply ABS cement to the outside surface of the drain pipe and the inside surface of the line drain connection.
Once the ABS cement is applied, ensure the line drain is installed immediately.
Use a level immediately after installation to ensure the drain body is straight and level. Shims can be used if necessary.
Use the supplied screws and the pre-exisiting holes in the aluminum rail, secure the drain body to the subfloor.
One screw should also be installed at each end of the drain body as shown.
The gap sticks included with your linear drain can be used as shown to keep the drain channel free of debris while the rest of the shower system is installed.
Apply additional masking or duct tape to protect the center drain opening.
Cut your shower pan to size on a sturdy work surface being careful to double-check all measurements before cutting.
We recommend leaving a 1⁄8 inch space between the pan edge and the framed wall.
The 1⁄2 notch MUST be re-cut on any side where it is trimmed away in order to ensure a proper seal around the shower pan.
Adjust your saw blade to the appropriate depth and cut the top side of the pan 1/2 inch in from the edge.
Complete the notch by adjusting your saw blade to cut 1 inch from the bottom of the shower pan and carefully complete the cut.
Remove the excess material and use a razor knife to make any adjustments to the notch.
Apply thinset starting at the back of the shower area, troweling towards the front. Ensure the trowel lines are pointing to the front of your shower pan. Leave a minimum 1 inch gap between the drain body and the thinset.
Apply a generous (3/4 inch) continuous bead of HYDRO-BLOK joint sealant along the drain body edge.
Carefully place the shower pan into position on the subfloor ensuring the joint sealant does not mix with thinset.
Ensure the shower pan is level and in the proper position on the subfloor and press into place.
If you have not done so already, use duct tape to mask off the drain opening 1 1/2 inches from the rear edge of the line drain body.
Apply a generous 1/2 inch continuous bead of joint sealant along the seam between the shower pan and the drain body.
Use the flat putty knife to smooth out the sealant so that there is at least 1 inch of sealant on either side of the seam.
Cut a length of the 2 inch mesh tape supplied with your shower pan to the length of the seam.
Press the mesh tape into the seam, carefully pressing it into the joint sealant.
Apply a continuous 1⁄2 inch bead of joint sealant on top of the mesh tape and smooth out again with a putty knife to fully cover the mesh tape.
Be sure to remove the duct tape mask before the joint sealant cures.
To begin installing wallboard, apply a 1/2 inch continuous seam of joint sealant along in the shower pan notch starting at the front edge of the line drain.
Press the wallboard firmly into the shower pan notch. We recommend using a level to ensure the wall board is level and fully seated in the shower pan notch.
Use duct tape to mask the end of line drain opening before applying sealant along the seam.
Secure the wallboard with HYDRO-BLOK screws and washers.
Install the screws/washers so that the washer is flush or just below the surface of the wallboard.
Apply a continuous 1⁄2 inch bead of joint sealant into the corner seam of the shower pan where it meets the wallboard.
Use the corner putty knife to smooth out the sealant so that there is at least 1 inch of sealant on either side of the seam.
Cut a length of the 2 inch mesh tape supplied with your shower pan 2 inches shorter than the seam length.
Press the mesh into the seam, pressing it into the existing joint sealant. Apply a continuous 1⁄2 inch bead of joint sealant on top of the mesh tape and smooth out again with the corner putty knife to fully cover the mesh tape.
Excess joint sealant can be used to begin covering washers.
Remove the mask on the line drain and ensure that joint sealant or mesh tape does not cover any part of the drain opening.
To install wallboard adjacent to previously installed wall board, apply a 1⁄2 inch continuous bead of joint sealant down the side of the existing wallboard and into the shower pan notch.
Angle the new sheet of wallboard into place so it seats firmly into the bead of joint sealant on edge of the existing wallboard. Then position the wallboard firmly into the notch of the shower pan.
Apply a 1⁄2 inch continuous bead of joint sealant along all wallboard seams and smooth out with the corner putty knife.
Secure each sheet of wallboard with HYDRO-BLOK screws and washers as you go.
Cut lengths of the included mesh tape 2 inches shorter than each seam between the shower pan and wallboard. Apply the mesh tape along all seams, pressing the mesh tape into the sealant. Ensure the line drain is properly masked before applying sealant.
Cover with a 1⁄2 inch continuous bead of joint sealant and smooth out with the corner putty knife.
Chapstick can be applied to the included gap sticks prior to tiling to prevent thinset and grout from adhering to the gap sticks.
The drain cover tray can be used to carefully mark your tile with the required cuts.
Carefully cut the drain opening, keeping in mind the portion of tile removed will be used as the drain cover.
We recommend slightly chamfering the inside edges of the tile opening.
Test fit the drain tray into the tile opening, ensuring proper fit.
The back of the tile which will be used in the drain cover must be notched to accommodate the raised corners of the tray.
Slightly chamfer the edge of the drain opening along the wet side.
Use a generous bead of HYDRO-BLOK Joint Sealant to install the tile insert into the drain cover.
Remove any excess sealant before it cures.
Test fit the drain cover into the tray.
Carefully apply a bead of HYDRO-BLOK Joint Sealant as shown to the drain tray and install as shown.
Press the drain tray and cover into place and allow the sealant to cure.
The gap sticks should be used during tiling and grouting to keep the drain channel clear of debris.
The drain cover removal tool makes removing the drain cover for cleaning easy.
The included cleaning tools can be used to easily clean the entire length of the drain body.
Removable hair combs are also included to make drain cleaning quick and easy.
Trim the combs to the seam between the main drain body and the end caps as shown.
With the drain cover removed the combs slide into place.
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét