Mini FAMICOM (Japanese Version of Mini NES) of the topic now...!
Next is becoming portable...
Great birth!?
No. This is an introduction of Mini FAMICOM MOD.
This looks like a GAME BOY.
The contents are Mini FAMICOM.
Yes. This is a remodeled machine that forcibly puts Mini FAMICOM into GAME BOY.
I knew that the size of the Mini FAMICOM is not much different from the GAME BOY...
I wanted to make this...
I was not very interested in Mini FAMICOM. However, I bought it for my purpose.
MOD of Mini FAMICOM that can be played anywhere.
If you are interested, please see continued!
But in this case, only one person can play. Did you think so?
All right! It is! 2Players games are also prepared!
I will explain the production of "FAMICOM POCKET" with illustrations.
Normally, the Mini FAMICOM is connected to a 5V power supply and HDMI compatible TV and plays.
Because the power supply is 5V, it is well known that it works even with mobile batteries.
I bought a 3.5 inch LCD monitor for portability.
This LCD monitor is a composite input.
So I bought a downscan converter to convert HDMI signals to composite signals.
Power supply to downscan converter is also 5V. Power can be supplied from the mobile battery.
It inputs video signals and...
Power supply of 12V.
It can not be powered directly from a 5V mobile battery.
Therefore, boost converter is sandwiched and 5V is boosted to 12V and connected...
Then the video was projected on the LCD monitor safely.
I want to output sound, so I will prepare two small speakers.
When connected to a downscan converter...
Hmm...? A small sound like a mosquito crying appears.
That's right. Audio signal must be amplified. I purchased an amplifier for that.
This is an amplifier for headphones so it can not produce loud sound, but it is very compact.
When I connected the amplifier, sound sounded steadily at this time.
The power supply of the amplifier is one dry battery.
I prepared the same LCD monitor for 2P side.
The video signal is branched and input.
As with 1P, boost converter boosts voltage from 5V to 12V. Enter it on the LCD monitor.
...However, the system was down at the moment the power source was connected.
It seems that the power supply stops because the mobile battery protection circuit was activated.
Power supply capacity is insufficient.
Then I will use a more powerful mobile battery.
Then the Mini FAMICOM launched successfully. LCD monitor on 1P side and 2P side was also shown.
Speaker of 2P side... I chose a simple method. I decided to use one channel for 2P side as it is.
Although the menu screen is stereo sound, the game is monaural sound so please miss it.
For ease of understanding, we also place the game controllers on this side.
Now. It is not good that the power supply of amplifier is a dry battery. I will prepare the power supply for this as well.
I will disassemble the amplifier.
I have created a self-made power supply circuit bord to step down 5V to 1.4V. It is a simple circuit using the LM317T.
However, the power consumption of the amplifier is very small. Therefore, a simpler method of resistor partial pressure may be good.
Anyway, I was able to incorporate the power supply of the amplifier into the system.
As power lines are getting more and more, individual power management becomes troublesome.
No, than this problem of troublesome, this is a game machine, so management with one power switch is ideal.
However, Mini FAMICOM can not be controlled with electrical ON and OFF like the old FAMILY COMPUTER.
For example, this screen comes out when you switch off the Mini FAMICOM.
It indicates that there is termination processing on the Mini FAMICOM.
It is the same as PC.
Initially I was planning to manage the power supply of all the devices by turning on and off the mobile battery.
If you turn off the power with the mobile battery in this way, the Mini FAMICOM will of course not be able to do this termination processing.
So, unless you control the power of each device triggered by Mini FAMICOM, it is bad.
So, I added a relay to self-made board.
Although I am not using a coil type this time, I explain roughly as a relay...
When passing electricity through the coil side, the switch side is closed by the electromagnet.
At this time, if electricity is flowing to the switch side...
It can be controlled from the coil side.
Of course it is also possible to control multiple circuits with one power supply.
All I have to do is to pull out the power that can be used as a trigger from inside the Mini FAMICOM.
...As a result, I chose the trigger as the power supply for the 2P game controller.
The power supply of the controller turns on at the same time as the Mini FAMICOM startup, and it turns off after the termination processing.
First, wiring the boost converter for LCD monitor is linked with Mini FAMICOM by relay.
Next, the downscan converter is also linked with the Mini FAMICOM.
What will happen if this is done ...
When the mobile battery is ready to supply power to the Mini FAMICOM and the relay board ...
When I turn on the Mini FAMICOM switch, the power supply of the controller also starts at the same time and it is input to the relay.
As described above, the switch side is turned ON and electricity flows.
By using Mini FAMICOM as a trigger, the boost converter, the down scan converter, the amplifier switch is turned on.
By linking these, power was turned on at the same time.
When turning off the switch of Mini FAMICOM...
The Mini Famicom will start the termination process.
Even during termination processing, power is supplied to the 2P controller. So each device is still working.
When the termination process is over, the supply of power from the controller of the Mini FAMICOM is stopped...
The switch side of the relay is released and the power supply to each equipment is cut off.
By the way, I use "solid state relay" on this board this time.
Those who are planning to start electronic work now. Relay is convenient so let's check it.
The actual operation looks like this.
Each device starts simultaneously with one switch.
Switch off to termination processing. Wait for the end of the termination process...
Each device turns off.
I will sort out a little. Boost converter to 2P side.
Since I could build an operational one, the following is a substantive part explanation.
Firstly, the mobile battery is too big to fit in the case of GAME BOY.
The capacity will be reduced, but the battery will be one.
I supplement this reduced capacity with large capacity and high reliability Panasonic battery.
And I have to overcome weakness that should also be destined for mobile battery.
The weakness is that the mobile battery itself can not charge when the mobile battery is supplying power to the Mini FAMICOM.
To solve the weak point, first prepare a battery box.
It makes the battery replaceable.
Next, I will prepare a function that can charge even while playing Mini FAMICOM.
I prepared two small mobile batteries.
They are decomposed...
Then prepare the battery box.
Now can charge two batteries separately.
Also, this charger is electrically disconnected from the system.
So, regardless of the state of Mini FAMICOM, it is always chargeable.
This is not an excellent solution. However, I told myself that I had cleared the problem that I can not charge while driving the device.
Oops. ince power is not input to the 2P side controller, it must be prepared...
I will prepare three resistors connected in series.
The controller power supply is 3.3V. Take out 3.3V from the 5V power supply using resistor partial voltage.
As you can see, we can easily get 3.3V.
It is possible just by wiring from the second resistor as shown.
This charging function is going to be built in the 2P side case which has a space margin.
And the system of "FAMICOM POCKET" is divided into 1P side and 2P side as shown in this.
I will explain the cable for connecting the 1P side and the 2P side which are divided.
Let's take a look at the wiring connecting 1P side and 2P side.
The breakdown is as follows. As of now, there are 8 wires in total.
Because 3 wires of them can be gathered as a ground wire, it seems that it can be done with 6 wires.
Things that can be used as cables. It is a communication cable dedicated to GAME BOY.
In the times when wireless communication environments are not common as in modern times, the GAME BOY conected with each other in this way.
The communication connector of the GAME BOY main unit is 6 pins. I would be able to realize a communication environment like genuine.
...However, one problem. As you can see, there are only 4 pins on the genuine cable.
I was in trouble, but I found this cable at the online shop.
It seems to be a cable that can communicate between old and new GAME BOY.
The connector of this cable can firmly confirm the pattern of 6 pins.
I took out the game pad of PS2 from the waste material box and extracted the cable.
Combined with the 6pins connector and the cable of the PS2, I made my own 6 pins full connection cable.
Wrap this 6 pins connector with the connector cover of USB cable kit. The length of the completed cable is about 5 feet. 6ピンコネクタを自作USBケーブル用のコネクタカバーで包みます。長さは約1.5mです。
Now I will prepare to install them on the case of GAME BOY.
Remove all cases.
And here two GAME BOY will appear.
Suddenly, I will disassemble them.
The board is also removed.
I try fitting the screen size.
The menu screen is quite hidden on the right and left side.
Also, the top is also hidden slightly.
Coincidentally, the right and left side of the game screen is perfect. Again the top is hidden.
I will adjust the size to match the main game screen and process it.
Screen size in progress...
It was able to fit perfectly to match the game screen.
In the same way we will apply casing processing to incorporate Mini FAMICOM.
I embed controller of Mini FAMICOM.
Remove the original bolt struts, install newly... And Painting ...
It is like a puzzle to ensure the optimal space for each device to fit.
Next, I will also process the case on the back side.
I also carried out some aggressive cutting processes that secured space by cutting the wall thickness.
I would like to finish the appearance as ready-made as possible.
Parts must not protrude, unnatural place connectors, these should not be.
Install each device with a small gap. Maybe it will fit.
"Maybe" is because it is impossible to deny the possibility that the case will not close depending on wiring interference...
Labels created at the end with PC...
If I paste the screen panel...
The case is complete.
This screen panel is a glass panel. I get it as a repair part of the GAME BOY.
I peeled all the print on the back side...
And I pasted the reversed printed label sticker from the back side.
The finish of the case looks like this. Coloring is summarized with white and azuki and gold.
Wiring for optimizing the positional relation is applied to each device.
Unexpected, wiring is heavy and bulky.
Wasteful wiring may be a source of trouble.
Those who have touched the electrical equipment of a car etc are well understood, but they are adjusted wires without waste.
I would like to try such beautiful wiring if I can.
However, in reality, it became wiring work while repeating trial and error.
Well then, it's time to assemble.
I would like to introduce the assembly process using the captured images.
First from the game controller part.
I will set the button and button rubber.
I fix the board with bolts.
There is no problem in the degree of push.
The next is the LED of the pilot lamp.
This is a part that needs to be sandwiched between the case and the LCD monitor...
So the chip LED is soldered to the end of the flat cable. This part needs to be fixed by tape
I will install a 3.5 inch LCD monitor from above.
Since it is the stage of the final assembly, I peel off the protective film of the LCD monitor.
Bolt the stay for fixing.
I will install the Mini FAMICOM board.
It is like a ghost of wiring...
First, I screw the microUSB terminal for charging.
Then fix the Mini FAMICOM board with bolts.
This is the board of communication cable connector and volume.
There are two screws.
Connect wires that can be connected at this point.
This is the amplifier board.
Earphone jack and speaker are united.
I already have wiring difficulties...
It takes quite a lot of time.
I will install the battery box.
There are two screws.
In a small gap under the battery box...
I would like to pack wires as much as possible...
Anyway, it takes time and effort for that.
This small board is a boost converter.
I noticed it when assembling...
Wiring processing accounts for 90% of the process.
I hope the heat does not make it bad.
Here is the back panel appearance.
Here I fix the downscan converter.
There are two screws.
Inadequacy was found in the wiring routing
Therefore, boost converter is removed.
When will the assembly be over?
This is a self-made board that performs power management.
There is no need to fix. Because it is tight and does not move...
There is no screw stop
There is no space to install the screw posts...
Oops...
Moreover, I found a defect in wiring.
Whew.
It seems that I managed to get through.
I insert the battery and test it once.
Will it start up?
Power switch ON!
It started. Was good.
Well, at the end of the 1P side, the casing work of the super hardship. Does it close well?
To prevent internal nails from hurting during assembly ...
Temporary fixation with tape.
While fine-tuning the wiring from the gap with tweezers · ·
I will carefully close it carefully.
It seems that it closed though it had a hard time.
I inserted a battery
Then attach the battery cover and test again.
Warning about the function of "save anytime", but ...
Tentatively, it started.
The play of the game is also normal.
By the way, the reset button is on the side.
Originally it is the place of the DC jack.
Assembly on 1P side is completed.
I am glad so let's keep it...
Next, assemble 2P side.
2P side is much easier than 1P side.
Most parts are on the main board...
It is unitized.
Therefore, wiring to be connected later is minimal.
So it is easy to assemble.
This board is a processed GAME BOY board.
Therefore, position of connector and strength were easily realized.
Let's build it up at once.
Pilot LED
3.5 inch LCD monitor
Unit board
Game controller
Earphone Jack & Speaker
Battery box
I finished bolt fixing all the equipment. Close the case.
Assembling on the 2P side is also completed.
Let's test the 2 players game immediately.
It is self-made communication cable to use when playing the 2 players games.
Insert it on the 1P side.
Also plug into the 2P side · ·
2P side power ON!
Oh?
It was not inserted deeply.
They linked successfully.
There is no problem with game operation.
"FAMICOM POCKET" is complete! It is!
Next is how to charge.
I will remove the 2P side battery cover.
To be fixed quite tightly, we attached a belt for removal.
If you do not set the belt under the battery beforehand, it will be hard to remove.
1A charger × 2 = 2A Adapters and cables compatible with 2A or more are required.
Charging begins when microUSB cable is inserted. Each LED lights up red during charging.
When charging is completed, each one goes out.
There is also a microUSB connector on 1P side so you can charge it.
As explained in the illustration, however, due to the specifications of the mobile battery, you can not play games while charging.
1P side is 2A fast charge. So we also need an adapter and cable compatible with 2A or more.
There is no pilot lamp showing charging on the 1P side, so it is not kind a little.
However, it can charge up relatively quickly because it is up to 2A charge.
Battery duration is 2 hours 20 minutes at 1 players games.
It was 1 hour and 10 minutes when 2 players games. Well. There is a problem around the power supply.
Both are cases when using Panasonic's 18650 type 3500mAh.
Panasonic is developing a battery of 4000mAh.
By replacing the battery, there is a merit that it can be shifted to a larger capacity battery.
...However, I do not feel such a factor as to be enthusiastic for a long time or a long period in the Mini FAMICOM.
This is merely "creating MOD for killing time", so this is fine for this. That is my honest impression.
Ah! I did not have a DISK SYSTEM, so I would like to play Zelda if I have time.
I made this, so I did Dr.MARIO with my wife.
I and my wife have never played Dr.Mario. I think the skill is about the same. At a lower level.
I thought it would be interesting if we were on the same level. ...However.
My wife seems to understand the system of Dr.MARIO faster than I am.
I lost one after another. Also I lost... I lost...
My daughter, niece, nephew became enthusiastic about a rare retro game. But it was only at the first.
Modern children seem to be hard to accept because the operability and difficulty of FAMILY COMPUTER is a little unkind.
In modern times there is a habit of uninstalling unless adults and children like it.
After all Mini Famicom is the impression that the FAMILY COMPUTER Generation is a toy for nostalgia.
I think work related to game development will be hard work. Especially now it is...
That's it. MOD of Mini FAMICOM and GAME BOY I introduced "FAMICOM POCKET".
Thank you to accompany my clumsy English. And Long time, Thank you for your watching.
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