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Hello! My name is Christina and I'm working with the Equine Fusion team.
And with me I have Margaret who is a professional hoof trimmer.
This beautiful horse here is Torres. He's a Norwegian Fjord horse.
And he's going to be our shoe model for us today
when we are going to demonstrate the success factors for gluing on our 24/7 jogging shoe.
Before you start gluing on 24/7, it's important that the hooves are balanced
by a hoof trimmer or farrier.
We have six success criteria which you should follow to ensure a longer
lifetime of the 24/7 jogging shoe.
These six are:
You have to have dry hooves before you glue them on,
you have to have a proper fit,
you have to have sufficient rubbing of the hoof wall,
you have to be efficient during the gluing process,
you have to have sufficient glue,
and you have to let the glue dry for enough of time afterwards.
Ok. Now we see the hooves of Torres are nice and dry.
That's important to ensure proper glue adhesion.
If the weather outside is dry you can just start to glue now,
but if it's wet, he has to stay inside for drying at least half an hour
in dry bedding.
okay now we're gonna check that we have a proper fit for the hoof.
First we put the toe of the hoof into the toe of the shoe.
Make sure you feel like it's in the front.
And see on the heels and put the foot down.
Here you can see the coronary band is not touching the leather
and there's no gap behind the bulb area.
And it fits on the side. There's no gap on the side.
If the leather is too high so that it's touching the coronary band,
you can just cut the leather with the scissor to make it lower.
and when you take it off you can see
in the sole that there's a mark for the heel. It must touch the sole not the leather.
The heel.
To make rasping on the hoof wall rough enough,
it's good to use a hoof rasp which is rougher.
You can see the difference. This is on the rough side and this is the fine side.
I prefer this one.
Now Margaret is gonna demonstrate how to rasp the hoof.
First of all, I take the fine side the fine side of the hoof rasp, just to
take away the outer layer.
The outer layer is quite hard, so I remove that first.
Now we've finished the rasping with the fine side, and Margaret has gone over to the more rough side
to make the patterns for the glue adhesion.
Some of the rasping is vertical and some is horizontal.
And I used sometimes only the side of the rasp, just to make sure it's deep enough for the glue to stick on.
It's also good to make rough enough rasping here back on the heels
and be careful not to take on the coronary band.
After the rasping, we clean the hoof wall with some alcohol.
As we gonna put glue into the shoe it's important that you use enough glue and
that you are efficient.
the glue is affected by the temperature,
so if you have really warm conditions
you have less time before it starts to cure.
we do not do not go further back to not reach the sensitive heel area,
but it's important to have glue all the way to the top of the leather,
and all the way down to the sole but not into the sole.
Now the cable ties help you to tighten the shoe,
and keep it tight to the hoof during the curing process.
And sometimes I seal it on the top.
Excess glue can be used as a seal.
Now that the shoes are on, it's important that the horse stays inside
or at least in controlled conditions to let the glue cure sufficiently.
And then we talk about at least 30 minutes and preferably one hour
before you let the horse move freely and go for your daily training.
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